The Black Tie Guide

Every now and again, I come across websites that I am really impressed with. One such website is the Black Tie Guide. This is the most complete and accurate guide I have seen in respect to the correct way for a gentleman to dress when attending a black tie (or white tie) event.

The guide splits the requirements for black tie into its component pieces, namely Jacket, Trousers, Waistcoat, Shirt, Neckwear, Shoes and Accessories.

For the jacket, four classic designs are shown at http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic_Components/Jacket.htm.

Fabric colour should be either black or midnight blue (which actually looks blacker in a subdued light setting).

Here at the Sartorial Executive we can, of course, offer a wide range of fabrics suitable for a black tie jacket, in all four styles starting from £390 if using Holland & Sherry Black Tie fabrics - cheaper fabrics are of course available.

Evening waistcoats are described at http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic_Components/Waist.htm and ours start from £230 made from the same fabric as the jacket. We suggest one of the Holland & Sherry Black Tie range for the jacket and waistcoat.

At http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic_Components/Trousers.htm they state that "Formal trousers are made of the same fabric as the jacket. While plain-front trousers are more common today, pleated styles remain the dressiest option." Needless to say, we are able to make both plain-front and pleated styles from £230.

Black tie shirts are always white and generally have a turn down collar. Collars and cuffs are generally marcella covered and a white marcella bib on the front with dress stud fastening. We can make these shirts from a wide range of fabrics but recommend the Alumo Supraluxe white cotton as a beautiful fabric for this purpose. For a small extra charge we can also add a detachable collar for genuine traditional style. See http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/prices.html for our prices.

Next time you attend a black tie event ensure you are wearing the correct dress by reading the guide and contact us to make any garments you require.

Monti 200 YORKSHIRE Fabrics

I have been sat down drinking a pint of excellent Spitfire Ale this evening whilst looking through some of the multitude of bespoke shirt fabrics that we have to offer.
One collection, that we have not really promoted as much as we should, caught my eye. Made by one of the leading Italian fabric mills, Tessitura Monti, the Yorkshire range is a fantastic collection of high yarn count fabrics in a wide variety of colours and patterns.
The high yarn count and the excellent quality dyes used by Monti mean that the fabric pattrens are as sharp and bold as any fabric we have to offer. This means that they are able to create patterns such as stripes and checks with very fine and sharply defined lines.
If I had to pick out one card from the collection it would be number 513 with a selection of six striped fabrics with fantastic use of pink, blue and white.
Shirts in these fabrics are £165 for bespoke and £155 for Stock Special (and worth every penny in my opinion!)

Cotton Socks - reduced for February

To make our fantastic cotton socks more affordable during February we have a special offer. Each pair of socks is available at just £6.00 instead of the normal £7.50.

We are confident that after trying these socks at this reduced price you will agree they are among the most comfortable socks that you have owned and will want to continue buying our socks.

Our socks are made for us by a small family company in Turkey, using fine Pima cotton fibres. The socks are made with hand linked toes and are ribbed in the calf which adds a level of elasticity ensuring that the socks will stay up throughout the day.

Currently our socks are available in five colours - Black, Navy, Charcoal, Brown and Claret - but other colours will be added shortly.

These socks are of the highest quality, especially when the price is taken into account. You will not be dissapointed.

The number one source of bespoke shirts is now the number one source for socks.

See http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/socks.html for details.

New house pattern for made to measure suits

We have changed the Made to Measure suit company that we use, and are now able to offer what we believe to be a much nicer sillouhette of suit. The image here shows one of our new jackets with a typical Savile Row style figure. The jacket shown is made with Holland & Sherry's Inter City range in Navy, an excellent business suit fabric. Suits made from this fabric are just £450 for a straight finish (£50 extra with a forward fitting).

If you want a stylish made to measure suit to go with your bespoke shirts then contact us today for an appointment.

Bespoke or Made to Measure

It is quite simple but often abused. The difference between bespoke and made-to-measure.
Bespoke involves a garment, be that a sduit of shirt, made from scratch. It will mean that no pre-existing pattern is used for the first shirt or suit for the client. The pattern is drawn up by hand from a range of measurements and figuration details, drawn out on paper and the fabric cut to that pattern. The pattern is unique to the client - nobody else has a garment made from that pattern. The pattern is then fully modifiable to ensure the best possible fit. Everything else after that is a bonus - such as hand stitching etc.
Made to Measure on the other hand uses pre-existing patterns that are used with some modification to produce a shirt or suit that will fit the wearer generally better than ready to wear.
Both bespoke and made-to-measure may offer a full range of customisations, but the pattern is really the key to the difference.
Our shirts are bespoke - we make a new pattern for every client. Our suits on the other hand are made-to measure - we make them from pre-existing patterns.
So, when buying a bespoke suit or shirt ask if a personal pattren is drawn up and cut by hand. Make sure you are getting what is being advertised!

Bespoke Shirts - A Royal Fabric

The Alumo Soyella Royal has arrived. A fantastic 75 g/m^2 240/2 - 240/2 100% Swiss Cotton, literally the most luxurious and fine cotton shirt fabric that we have seen.

The fabric has a handle and feel similar to silk, but is 100% long staple cotton.

Eight plain colours are available from White to Black with three shades of blue, a pink, a lilac and a cream.

These fabrics would make luxurious dinner shirts for that special event.

Book a consultation today and we will show you this fantastic range of bespoke shirt fabrics.

http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/

The ultimate bespoke shirt fabric

Hot on the heels of the availability of S.I.C. tess fabrics, I have just been notified of the despatch from Switzerland of the swatch card for Alumo's new Super Royale range.
This is an awesome 2 x 2/240s which comes in six block colours. My feeling is that the white will be the most popular.
If you want to spoil yourself then this is the fabric from which to get your next bespoke shirt made!

S.I.C. Tess Fabrics are here

We are extremely pleased to announce that our fabric range is now supplemented with the splendid Pronti collection from Italian fabric house S.I.C. Tess. These are among the best fabrics available, sitting with Alumo as one of our best ranges. As an introduction to this range we are offering a £10 discount for shirts ordered from this range between now and the end of the year.

There really is something for every shirt wearer here from 80s to 200s, poplins, oxfords, twills and Linen fabrics.

Book an appointment with one of our visiting consultants today and ask to see the beautiful range of fabrics.

The Sartorial Executive - the luxury bespoke shirt maker.

The bespoke shirt maker that offers more fabrics than any other shirt maker in our area, will soon be able to offer you the fine Italian shirtings from S.I.C. Tess.

We are awaiting the swatch books from this fine bespoke shirt fabric mill, which will sit aside the fantastic fabrics we already offer from Thomas Mason, Tessitura Monti and Alumo.

For more details about this company see here http://www.sictess.it/eng/prodotti_pronti.html

We are very impressed both by the fabrics and the company and will beoffering a special discount on fabrics from this mill when we have them available.

Remember the highest quality English made bespoke shirts in the region are only available from the Sartorial Executive - the luxury bespoke shirt maker.

Dressing in a relaxed working environment

There is a popular trend towards dropping the jacket and tie from the dress code in the workplace, and whilst personally I think this is a bad idea, there are some simple ways to ensure that you can still look professional whilst others around you are making do with a pair of jeans and polo shirt.

If a jacket and tie are not to be worn, and a tie should not be worn without a jacket, then the fit and cut of the shirt and trousers becomes more important as they are the articles of clothing that are projecting your personal image.

A popular phrase for 'dressing down' at work is 'business casual' (which traditionally meant wearing a sportcoat rather than a suit) but I feel many emphasise the word 'casual' with little regard to 'business'. To balance this out why not, rather than wear a polo shitrt and jeans/chinos to work wear a nice shirt and a well tailored pair of woollen trousers? If you are no longer wearing (and therefore buying) suits then the cost of a made to measure of bespoke shirt and a pair of tailored trousers is going to be a more modest cost than previously required.

The Shirt

If you are wearing a shirt open neck then a spread collar tends to work better than a cutaway or point collar (a button down is another option but may look too casual when paired with tailored trousers). Cufflinks should not be worn without a jacket, so a buttoned cuff with 2 or 3 button fastening would be a good choice.

The fabric used is really a personal thing, but I would suggest cream, blue or pale plain plains. Stripes and checks can be worn also as the shirt colour has to do the job that is traditionally left to the tie, but these should be chosen carefully to suit the business environment being worked in.If you are going for made to measure of bespoke shirts it is best to keep to fabrics of no more than 120 yarn count else the shirt will tend to look wrinkled during the second half of the day. Alumo Supraluxe or Thomas Mason Silverline would be suitable.

Trousers

For trousers we would suggest a 100% wool flannel of about 9oz weight in the summer and 12 to 13oz in the winter. Sticking to Navy and Charcoal shades will be safe whether plain, herringbone or pinstripe are chosen. We would recommend the Holland & Sherry Perennial bunch HS507 for these.

Looking professional is always important in a business environment, especially in these harsh economic times. First impressions do count and the first thing anyone sees of you is the way you present yourself. Make sure that others first impressions of you are positive even in a 'casual dressing' environment.

Stock Special Shirts - Full Acorn Range now available online

We have expanded the range of fabriocs available for our online stock special shirts to include all the Acorn range. Prices range from £100 for the Grange 100s Poplin to £150 for 100% linen. these shirts are made in England using traditional shirtmaking techniques in one of the oldest shirt making workshops in the country.

We have no minimum order for these shirts and the price includes delivery (a small surcharge is added to international orders).

If you are looking for the best quality in gentlemen's shirts and a better fit than anythiong on the high street then these are the shirts for you. See details at http://shirt-style.co.uk/bespoke_shirts_online.html


For those that want an even more exclusive shirt then our bespoke shirts are available.

Removable Collar Bespoke Shirts available

We are proud to announce that we are happy to make bespoke shirts with detachable collars, particularly useful in enabling a formal dress shirt to be changed from a wing (turn-up) collar to a turn-down collar.

Contact us on 01684 878195 or complete the form at http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/order.html

Bespoke Shirts available worldwide

A post on Style Forum shows one of our recent bespoke shirts (along with some Finnamore shirts from Italy) at http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php?p=2319789&postcount=1247
This shirt was ordered by a client based in Copenhagen, Denmark after seeing shirts made for other Style Forum members. The shirt has a customer designed collar, based on one of our collars previously designed for another client.

This is one of the best features of bespoke shirts, the ability to personally dewsign features of the shirt to suit your own style and because we use hand cut paper patterns for all the components of the shirt all future shirts will be made to exactly the same specification (unless the client requests changes, of course).

The bespoke shirt shown on the Style Forum page is made using an Acorn Grange Gingham fabric - a particularly nice gingham check.

If you would like to order a bespoke shirt from the Sartorial Executive, made to the finest English shirt making standards then call us on +44 1684 878195 and we will work to you to create the shirt for you.

The Sartorial Executive - Fine English Bespoke Shirts
Telephone 01684 878195
or visit
http://shirt-style.co.uk

Luxury Bespoke Shirts, Cufflinks, Socks and Ties

The Sartorial Executive are a company that focus on traditional luxury and quality ahead of fashion and gimmick. Take for example our fantastic Sterling Silver chain-linked cufflinks. Fanbtastic value at just £65, but no compromise in quality. They are a perfect partner for our bespoke shirts.

Our socks are, in our opinion, the best available from any UK manufacturer. Ultra soft cotton, hand finished, over the calf to ensure they stay up and only £13. Why only navy? 90% of respondents to a recent survey included navy as their sock colour of choice - so here they are the ultimate navy sock. Other colours are in the pipeline - just let us know your favourite colours.

Our ties are hand-made 100% fine Italian Silk. Made using traditional Italian tie making processes in the Como region by skilled tie craftsmen. These are of a limited supply as we plan to move production to the UK using fine English silks. Our current ties are very luxurious; our new ties will be even better.

And that leaves our shirts - the best Italian and Swiss cottons are used, with yarn counts up to 200s. The mills we use have rightly earned their reputation as the best in the world. Our clients know what they want when it comes to quality and we deliver.

A bespoke shirt cuff with a license to kill

Looking for something a little different on your next bespoke shirts? How about a cocktail cuff? This cuff is essentially a turnback cuff which fastens with buttons rather than cufflinks. Apparantly it was originally designed by Frank Foster, the esteemed bespoke shirt maker from Pall Mall and made popular by Sean Connery and later Roger Moore wearing the cuff on shirts in James Bond movies (Moore also wore them in some episodes of The Saint). The cuff is often called the James Bond cuff for this reason.

Originally designed for use with evening wear (hence the term 'cocktail cuff') the collar is today worn regularly with lounge suits in a more informal environment.

If you are looking for a cuff on your bespoke shirts with the flamboyance of the turnback, but want to do away with cufflinks then the cocktail cuff may be for you.

One for the ladies

Just a reminder that our bespoke shirts are not just for Gentlemen. We are also able to produce excellent bespoke shirts for ladies at the same price.

To view our excellent range of fabrics, the largest and most comprehensive in the region, just call 01684 878195 or fill in the contact form at http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/order.html

Fleet Support Group Charity Polo Day

As we mentioned earlier we recently donated a Made to Measure shirt to the charity auction at a recent Polo day in support of cancer charity 'Hope for Tomorrow'. I am pleased to say that the event on the day raised just over £21,000 for the charity. An excellent result.

Linen Bespoke Shirts - stay cool this summer.

The weather is getting hotter and hotter! There are rumours of it reaching the mid 30s sometime during this week. Phew!!

You may be finding your cotton shirts are leaving you a bit 'hot under the collar'. No matter, we are able to craft you a fantastic linen shirt in our Kent workshops from £135. Linen is the best fabric to wear in the heat of the summer, and if made from traditional business colours then it fits fine under a suit in the workplace. We have a large range of linen colourways to choose from.

There is no need to join the T-Shirt wearing brigade that are so prevelant in today's workplace. retain your sartorial dignity with one of our linen shirts.

Find out more by completing the form at http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/order.html or call us on 01684 878195.

Wedding bespoke shirts

For those who like the traditional look of a club collar shirt for their wedding, bespoke shirts are a great choice. We have recently made two of the following bespoke shirts for a groom for himself and the best man.

The club collar was very popular early in the last century - see the shirts worn by Stephen Fry in the TV adaptation of P.G.Wodehouse's Jeeves & Wooster novels. In recent years the club collar has all but disappeared from everyday use, although there was a small revival in the 1960s

Bespoke Shirts with real style

Another of our shirts has been deemed a star by the members of Style Forum. The picture below was posted by one of our clients and received some really positive feedback. We already have had people requesting their own version of this bespoke shirt after seeing it on the forum.

The shirt features no tie space making for a very clean neck closure and the shape and size of the collar was designed by the client himself; and a great design it is as it is becoming the most popular collar shape we sell.

We intend to offer a similar shirt to this as a special offer soon. Watch this space for more details.

Button Down Bespoke Shirts Collar is 'Terrific'

We always knew our button down collars on our Sartorial Executivebespoke shirts were amongst the best available, and this has been confirmed in a comment from a respected contributor on the esteemed Ask Andy About Clothes - see http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showpost.php?p=947892&postcount=11363

See for yourself how good our button down bespoke shirt collars are by either making an appointment with one of our consultants (http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/order.html) or ordering a Made to Measure version online at http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/bespoke_shirts_online.html

Corgi Socks - coming soon

We are pleased to announce that we will soon be bringing some of the highest quality socks available to you through both our visiting bespoke shirts service and also online.

The socks will be made in Wales for us by Corgi socks, a fine company that holds a Royal Warrant from HRH The Prince of Wales. These socks are certainly worth the warrant as they are beautiful indeed.

Initially we will be offering navy with sky toe, heel and tops in an over the calf length made from 100% Cotton.

we are sure you will be delighted.

Going, going gone....

Just one week until the Hope for Tomorrow charity Polo day at Beaufort Polo club where one of our Made to Measure shirts is to be auctioned in aid of this very worthwhile charity.

http://www.beaufortpoloclub.co.uk/Fixtures/CCPoloDay.htm is the website with details of this fantastic days entertainment.

Quality bespoke shirts - no gimmicks

Whilst other shirt makers concentrate on the gimmicks that they offer with their tailored shirts we concentrate on the most important aspect of bespoke shirts - quality.

Our shirts are made from the finest quality two fold cottons sourced from the best italian and Swiss cotton mills, and are made here in England using the best shirt making techniques. We truly believe that you will not buy a bespoke shirt in the UK at the same price and quality as our shirts. Have a look at http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/gallery.html for some examples of our shirts.

Of course if monograms and patterened collar and cuff patterns are your thing then we are more than happy to make those, but we will never compromise on quality of our shirts.

Bespoke Shirts - interlinings

Interlinings are hidden, unseen components in shirts yet they are very important. They are the thing that adds the support, handle, soft or firmness and style to the collars and cuffs of your bespoke shirts.

There is the choice of whether the interlinings are sewn in or fused (glued). All of our interlinings are stitched as this gives a more natural look to the collars and stops them being too rigid and 'cardboard' like and flat like so many shirts (even some that are more expensive than ours).

We have chosen our bespoke shirt interlinings to give just the optimum level of firmness which allows the collar to look good and be worn without collar stiffeners in a more casual environment, and with collar stays when worn with a suit and tie.

A look at the collars on our shirts in comparison to many others will soon tell you that our collars are better. they are nicer in style and sit correctly on the shirt.

Bespoke shirts - 240s 2 ply?

We have just been speaking to one of our main fabric suppliers from italy and they have informed us that they soon expect to be able to offer a superfine 240s 2-ply cotton range for bespoke shirts.

this is very exciting as it will enable us to make some of the finest possible bespoke shirts in the world. We will keep you up to date through this blog as to when these fabrics are available

made to measure suits

Our made to measure suits are now available to complement our bespoke shirts. The first suit is already in the process of being made using a fantastic herringbone cloth from the Holland & Sherry perennial range. This 13oz 100% Wool worsted cloth is an excellent choice for a suit.

We will bring you pictures of the suit as it is developed.

Latest Bespoke Shirts

Alumo Supraluxe White
Client designed collar without interlining

Tessitura Monti Regal

Client designed collar without interlining

The five levels of formality in a Gentleman's dress

1. Formal - this is what is also known as 'white tie'. No matter how often menswear companies refer to lounge suits and business shirts as being formal, they will always be wrong. White tie is well defined, for example here at the university of Cambridge website http://www.societies.cam.ac.uk/cuhags/whitetie/defn.htm. The shirt most definitely be white with a stiff (preferably removable) wing collar and a marcella front bib.

2. Semi-Formal - Black Tie. many will refer to this as formal dress, and that is because it is about as formal as they will ever wear. It is not formal. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_tie for a definition

3. Informal - This is where the lounge suit (or business suit) resides. That suit that you thought was a formal uniform is very informal in the hierarchy of gentleman's dress.

4. Casual - No not jeans and a Tee Shirt, but a sports jacket, tie and contrast trousers.

5. Sub-standard - this is what most people seem to wear regardless of the formality of an event these days. Jeans, T-Shirts, Short-sleeved shirts etc.

Help us design our new tie collection

We are talking to a number of tie makers both here in the UK and also in Italy. We are planning to have a new tie range made for us, and we would like you the buying public to help us choose the designs.
If there is a particular tie style, pattern or colour you like let us know - you ca send us a photo or link to a tie that is of the style you like. The ties will all be 4 inch wide and hand-made with a small selection being seven-fold ties.
So get your designing hat on and suggest a design for our tie range. if your design is chosen you will receive a £10 credit towards a bespoke shirt.
Designs are required by the end of April.

Creating an Image

I spent yesterday afternoon in the town of Stroud in Gloucestershire, not too far from me. I was meeting with Berith, an image consultant who has worked in the fashion and beauty industry for 25 years. Berith knows her stuff (not surprising after so many years in the industry) and amongst her offerings is a style and image consultancy service for men.
Trained by Colour me Beautiful, Berith has combined their system with some of her own ideas which, from speaking to her, sound really great.
I am often asked by clients what colour bespoke shirts they should buy from me (one of each of course :-), and whilst I can help inform them based on my knowledge and experience, Berith has the training and background to really help.
We have decided that we will be bringing to our respective clients a joint offer of style and image consultancy with first bespoke shirt/tie/cufflinks etc. More details will be available on the blog when known.
In the meantime check out Berith's website at http://www.b-image.co.uk/ and please tell her I sent you if you use her services. recommend her to your wife or partner too!

Bespoke Shirts - a chance to do something different

We have today been commissioned to make a shirt for a client who is 6 foot 3 inches tall and very slim . He used to wear shirts that have the stripes running horizontally, but is unable to find them in the shops.

Normally, we would suggest use of horizontal stripes on a shirt is probably not a good idea but he knows what he wants and we will provide. An example of someone wearing a horizontal stripes shirt can be seen on the excellent Sartorialist blog at http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/2007/11/on-streethorizontal-stripe-shirts-paris.html, and it certainly looks good.

We shall be making the bespoke shirt in the Acorn BC Green fabric with white collars and cuffs.

Look for pictures of the finished article here in a few weeks.

Ladies Bespoke Shirts now available.

A quick update to let you know that we are now able to provide Ladies Bespoke Shirts within our operating zone, and also a replication sevice nationwide and internationally. Go to http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/ladies-bespoke-shirts.html

Jazz age bespoke shirts

We have recently been comissioned to produce some fine club collar bespoke shirts in the style popular in the Jazz Age, the 1920's and 30's. Shirts of this period generally had standar turndown collars and cuffs that take cufflinks (but not always double). Collar pins were also popular.
For examples of these types of shirt then you can look at old episodes of the Fry & Laurie TV series Jeeves and Wooster. Jeeves, the valet always wore a club (or penny round) collar and Wooster turn down pointed collars with tie pins.
We are experienced in both of these styles so if you are looking for something of 20's or 30's style then we would be pleased to make them for you.

Turnbull & Asser bargain find

A new shop has opened close to me called 'Good as New' and they sell second hand high end clothing that is as good-as-new. I had a look yesterday and bagged a fantastic Turnbull & Asser 50oz English Silk twill tie that was in absolutely perfect condition (not surprising for something of such high quality). The best thing about it? It was just £5!
I now have to get a couple of new bespoke shirts to go with it...
Turnull & Asser are , of course, famous for their bespoke shirts, but believe me, their ties are also worthy of great acclaim.

Quality bespoke shirts

People often ask how good our bespoke shirts really are. We obviously think they are among the best, and when you consider that our shirts are made in the same workshops, by the same seamsters and to the same standards as another shirtmakers shirts, who was nominated in GQ Style magazine as London's best bespoke shirt maker and by Nick Foulkes in the Evening Standard as one of the top 5 bespoke shirt makers in the world, then you get an idea how good our shirts are.
We only use the best Italian and Swiss cottons (although we also carry Acorn for those who like the very English patterns they make available). We us very high quality stitching at 16 spi, single needle tailored throughout.Our Mother of Pearl buttons are not just any pearl buttons, but are made from the finest grade MoP and are elegantly constructed to complement the quality of our shirts.
If you want to see the quality of our bespoke shirts for yourself then call us on 01684 878195 and ask for one of our consultants to bring samples to show you. Alternatively view our website at http://www.shirt-style.co.uk

A white shirt

You would think it would be simple, wouldn't you! A client wants a plain white shirt. easy, white is white isn't it.... well when it comes to bespoke shirts it is not that easy.

In our collection of over 2500 fabric samples for our clients to choose from we have well over 50 that can be described as plain white. I am not including the marcella and dobby weaves and other white on white cloth, but just good old plain white.

You can have pinpoint, end-on-end, poplin, Oxford, linen, cashmarello, Royal Oxford then there is the yarn count.... 80s, 100s, 120s, 140s, 170s, 200s etc etc.

The choice goes on and on - and this is just the plain whites!

This really highlights one of the biggest benefits of buying a bespoke shirt; choice.

If you feel that you would be overwhelmed by the choice then have no fear as our consultants will be on hand to help guide you based on what you require the shirt for, your budget, what you are wearing the shirt with etc. We can even recommend image consultants to help you choose colours and patterns if required.

Of course, choice is not all that bespoke shirts offer. Ypou get the best fit possible, the best construction possible (meaning a bespoke shirt will last longer than ready to wear) and you know that it has been crafted exclusively for you, from your own unique pattern.

if you have not already tried bespoke shirts then call us on 01684 878195 or fill out the form online.

The Brompton Collar

The Brompton Collar is our standard turn down collar and along with the Albany is probably one of our most popular. It also forms the basis of our house style button down collar. The collar is shown laid out below.

The collar has a standard size band so the collar does not sit particularly high - if you prefer higher collars we have other options which we will detail seperately.

A view of the collar buttoned:

This collar is available both on our bespoke shirts and our online made to measure service.

Bespoke Shirt maker The Sartorial Executive partners with Birmingham's top bespoke suit company enabling their clients to have a high quality Bespoke made to Measure suit constructed to wear with their luxury bespoke shirts.

The company they have partnered with have been making bespoke suits for over 100 years and it will in turn allow their large customer base the opportunity to obtain the highest quality bespoke shirts to wear under their bespoke suits.

A large number of high quality wooolen fabrics ar available and as with any bespoke service there is no limit to the styles of suit available.

For more details go to http://www.shirt-style.co.uk/madetomeasuresuits.html

The price of a Bespoke Shirt

I just got off of the phone from a person that had left his details for a call back to make an appointment for a shirt fitting. He had come via our website and the first question I was asked was what are the prices and when i told him, he basically ended the conversation there.

My question is, and I did not ask him, what price did he expect to pay?

I believe the quality bespoke shirt market is suffering in the same way that bespoke suits have with so many companies offering so called bespoke-shirts from an online website and a few drop down menus. People do not realise that the shirts from these companies are 9 times out of 10 a totally different beast than genuine quality bespoke shirts. They are £45 or so for a reason! below I try to list a few of the reasons, which it is best to understand before deciding where to buy you bespoke shirt.

1. Quality of Cloth - A shirt for less than £100 is very unlikely going to be made from top cottons such as Albini, Alumo and Monti. If they are then the shirt has definitely not been made in the UK, more likely the far East in the shape of Hong Kong or Thailand in a factory operation. More than likely the cloth will come from India or China and will have a percentage of microfibre mixed in. Use of a good cloth will add £20 or so to the cost of making the shirt.

2. Quality of Interlinings for collars and cuffs - The collars and cuffs of a bespoke shirt tell us so much about the quality of the rest of the shirt. Cheap shirts will have the interlinings fused to the collar and cuff material, making the collars stiff and lifeless. A quality bespoke shirt will be made without fusing and the interlinings will be hand stitched making for a softer, natural looking collar and cuff. Good interlinings are more expensive and hand sewing takes longer than fusing.

3. Personal Patterns - A qality bespoke shirt will require a personal pattern to be made for you; a cheaper version will be made by working off of standard blocks. The extra time and cost of the pattern making adds to the shirt cost but ensures that the shirt fits you and is exclusive to you.

4. Details - Cheap online bespoke shirts are unlikely to have Mother of Pearl Buttons without paying extra; pattern matching is unlikely on a cheap shirt; contrast collars and similar are likely to cost extra on a cheap shirt, but are generally included in the cost of a quality bespoke shirt.

If you really want to pay less than £100 the you will be better off getting a better quality ready to wear shirt from the likes of Hackett, Aquascutum or Jermyn Street and getting it altered to fit better around the body.

3.

Looking after your bespoke shirts

Let's face it, a bespoke shirt is an investment. At around £100 to £200 a go you want it to last longer than a few months. To help you on the way here are a few tips to keep your bespoke shirts in tip top condition.

1. Wash your cotton bespoke shirts in a washing machine at 40 degrees - any hotter and you will reduce it's life
2. Iron on setting number 2. Yes, i know setting 3 says Cotton, but it is too hot, cotton will iron fine with less heat - but do use steam or ensure shirt is slightly damp.
3. Hang the shirt up after each wear. If it has creases but you want to wear it again before the next wash then run the iron over the body again.
4. Remove collar bones after wearing.
5. Check all buttons for security before hanging, and repair or replace ny that need it.
6. Don't eat spaghetti whilst wearing your bespoke shirt.

That's all, not much too it, a good quality cotton bespoke shirt almost looks after itself.

Thomas Mason Cloth now available for our bespoke shirts

We are pleased to be able to announce that we are now able to supply our bespoke shirt clients with Thomas Mason Cloths. Italian owned, but with an English tradition stretching back to 1786.

The cloths we have are from their Silverline Collection, a range of approximately 100 cloths including plains, checks and stripes.

Shirts from these cloths will cost between £90 to £105 dependant on quality.